Let’s 3D print… with metals! There are a ton of options available now for producing 3D metal parts, but the most straightforward one involves laser-welding pulverized stainless steel directly into your final shape. No de-bindering, post-sintering or other steps necessary to get a fully functional part. And One Click Metal is working on making that technology a lot more affordable*!
This is my digital dashboard that I just made – it sits on the wall right next to my desk and is just “always there”. I’ve got the local time, world time, well, I mean go by US west coast time, I’ve got the weather, my upcoming video plan and to-do on here and in the last two weeks that I’ve been using it, it has already made my work so much more efficient because it totally keeps me on track.
We’ve already looked at how to mechanically build a digital dashboard based on DAKboard or MagicMirror², but simply installing the software or opening up a browser window on the Raspberry Pi isn’t going to be a great solution in the long run. Here’s the software setup and the modifications that I added to the regular Raspbian install to make it a smooth experience!
Today, I’ll take an absolutely boring part and make it interesting – shelf brackets. Using topology optimization with the free version of Autodesk Fusion360. If you want to have a computer automatically come up with the best geometry for a part that for example will support a given weight, yet use as little material as possible, there are basically two different automated design processes that have become pretty popular these days.
Want to use 12V parts in a 24V printer? Fancy giving your stepper motors a boost by running their drivers at a higher voltage? In this video I’ll show you how! Okay, this one’s a guide to modifying or building your own printer. Because I’ve just modified and built my own printer, and it uses both a 12 and 24V components in the same system, using two power supplies. Let me tell you why that makes sense and how to do it on your own machine.